Installation guide for frost-resistant porcelain tiles by Raimar

To ensure durability and long-term performance, it is crucial to choose the right installation method according to the intended use of your space.

General material characteristics

Frost-resistant porcelain tiles are a high-tech product that offer:

• Extremely low water absorption (below 0.5%);

• Resistance to frost and UV rays – colors remain unchanged;

• High mechanical strength and resistance to stains and chemicals;

• Long service life with minimal maintenance;

• Versatility – suitable for both indoor and outdoor spaces.

Installation methods

The choice of method depends on the terrain and the expected load.
Below are 7 proven installation methods:

1. Dry-laying stepping stones in grass (pathway steps)

An ideal method for garden paths and relaxation areas, allowing the stone to blend naturally into the landscape.

Advantages: quick installation, excellent drainage, easy to change the layout.

Steps:

1. Mark the positions of the slabs.

2. Remove 5–6 cm of turf under each slab.

3. Add a layer of fine sand or gravel (4–8 mm fraction) to create a stable base.

4. Place the slab 0.5–1 cm below the grass level (for safe mowing).

5. Fill the gap between the slab and the turf.

Laying on grass for integration with nature:
With this method, the goal is not a perfectly level surface for tables and chairs, but rather a functional path you can walk on without muddy shoes or flattening the grass.

Specific note: each slab “lives its own life.” It is important to have at least 5 cm of gravel underneath so it doesn’t sink into mud after rain.

Key point: the slabs must sit slightly below ground level so the lawn mower can pass freely over them without the blades hitting the stone.

2. Dry-laying on gravel

A practical solution for patios and pedestrian paths with high water permeability (drainage).

Advantages: frost resistance, helps mask minor unevenness in the ground.

Steps:

1. Remove 10–20 cm of soil.

2. Compact the base and lay geotextile.

3. Add a layer of coarse gravel (16–35 mm), then a top layer of fine gravel (4–8 mm).

4. Level and lay the slabs with a joint of at least 4 mm (use spacers).

Three main ways to treat the joints with this method:

1. Open joints (no filling):
   The most common and functional option. Slabs are laid with spacers (at least 4 mm) and the joints are left empty. Rainwater drains instantly through the joints into the drainage layer, preventing puddles and ice.

2. Filling with fine sand:
   Washed quartz sand can be swept into the joints until fully filled. This stabilizes the slabs and gives a more finished appearance while maintaining drainage capacity.

3. Polymeric sand:
   A professional material that looks like sand but contains binders. It is swept in dry and then lightly watered to activate the polymer. The result is a joint resistant to erosion, prevents weeds and ants, yet remains elastic enough to accommodate base movement without cracking.

Important rule: with dry installation, the goal is to keep the surface permeable, so materials are used that allow water to pass down freely toward the gravel.

3. Dry-laying on sand for a stable base

A fast and easy method, often used for beach zones or specific garden projects.

Advantages: the surface “breathes,” easy execution.

Steps:

1. Level and compact the sand base.

2. Place the slabs directly and level them with a rubber mallet.

3. Fill the joints with clean sand.

This method is chosen when you want a stable platform but do not want (or cannot) pour concrete. It is often used in beach bars, temporary terraces, or around swimming pools.

Specific note: sand is an excellent “leveler.” It allows very easy height corrections to achieve a perfectly even surface.

Key point: unlike the grass method, slabs are placed next to each other. The sand acts as a “bed,” distributing weight evenly across the entire slab area, preventing breakage under foot traffic.

Comparison between Method 1 and Method 3

4. Installation on a cement screed with adhesive class C2TES1

This is the only method that ensures the surface is suitable for parking and light vehicle traffic.

Advantages: maximum strength and resistance to high loads.

Steps:

1. Prepare a solid concrete base with a 2% slope for drainage.

2. Apply adhesive using the “notched trowel” method (on the base and on the slab).

3. Maintain joints of at least 5 mm.

Method #4 is the most stable and durable method, but because it is monolithic (all layers are firmly bonded), it is also the most affected by thermal expansion. For this reason, jointing is a critical step.

Grouting recommendations for cement adhesive installation (Method #4)

With this method, the joint is not only an aesthetic element—it acts as a “shock absorber” that takes up stress caused by temperature differences (expansion and contraction).

Joint width

• Minimum 5 mm: for outdoor conditions and vehicle-load zones, joints narrower than 5 mm are not recommended. A wider joint provides better strength and flexibility.

• Spacers: always use suitable spacers to ensure uniform joint width.

Choosing grout

• Cement-based grout: use high-quality, water-repellent, frost-resistant mixes—standard for this type of installation.

• Class CG2W: recommended for improved wear resistance and low water absorption.

Expansion (movement) joints – critically important!
On large areas, it is mandatory to leave wider movement joints filled with elastic silicone or polyurethane (PU) sealant rather than rigid grout.

• Every 9–12 m²: it is recommended to divide the surface into fields with movement joints to prevent cracking or debonding.

• Perimeter joint: leave 1 cm clearance where slabs meet walls, columns, or curbs.

Grouting process

• Cleaning before grouting: ensure joints are free of adhesive and dust before starting.

• Application: apply grout with a rubber float, filling the full joint depth.

• Cleaning after application: once grout starts to set (usually after 10–20 minutes), wipe the surface with a damp sponge.

Initial cleaning (after installation)
This is the step most often skipped. Residues from cement adhesive and grout create a microscopic film that attracts dirt.

• Acidic cleaner: use an acid-based cleaner to fully remove cement haze and reveal the true color and texture of the stone. Use only after grout is fully cured.

Important reminder:
Never install slabs without joints in exterior conditions. Lack of joints almost certainly leads to lifting and cracking during the first serious frost or strong solar heating.

5. RAISED FLOOR: elevated floor with adjustable pedestals

A modern solution for terraces, verandas, and roofs, allowing utilities to be hidden under the slabs.

Advantages: access to waterproofing, excellent drainage, lower weight.

Steps:

1. Place pedestals directly on the waterproofing layer.

2. Adjust height for perfect leveling.

3. Lay slabs freely; joints remain open for water drainage.

This is a “dry” installation method where sintered stone slabs are placed on special plastic supports (pedestals) rather than bonded. This creates an air gap between the base (waterproofing) and the finish surface.

Key advantages:

• Concealed utilities: the space under the slabs is ideal for cables, irrigation pipes, or drainage systems—hidden yet accessible.

• Instant drainage: water passes through open joints and drains along the slope of the base beneath—no puddles.

• Thermal and acoustic insulation: the air gap acts as insulation, helping prevent overheating in summer and heat loss in winter.

• Lower structural weight: without screed and adhesive, the overall system weight is much lower—important for older balconies or roofs with limited load capacity.

• Easy repair access: if a waterproofing leak occurs, simply lift several slabs, fix the issue, and reinstall—no demolition, no dust.

Technical details and components:

• Pedestals: fixed (low) or adjustable (from 1 cm to 50+ cm). Some have self-leveling heads that compensate for base slopes up to 5%, keeping the surface perfectly level.

• Slabs: this method requires 2 cm slabs, designed for structural loads while supported only at the corners.

• Joints: remain open (typically 4 mm), determined by the pedestal head spacers.

Installation guidance:

• Base preparation: the base must be solid and waterproofed, with a slope toward drains.

• Layout: pedestals are arranged in a grid matching the slab size. Each slab is supported at all four corners. For larger slabs (e.g., over 60×60 cm), a fifth pedestal is added in the center for extra safety.

• Leveling: use a level and the adjustment key to achieve a perfectly flat plane.

• Edge finishing: at walls or curbs, use special clips (brackets) to prevent slab movement and achieve a clean finish.

Who is this method for?
Owners of holiday properties and modern houses with verandas and flat roofs, as well as restaurants with outdoor terraces.

6. Wall cladding

Transforming vertical surfaces with sintered stone (frost-resistant porcelain tiles) is an investment in aesthetics and exceptional durability. Depending on the project, height, and desired effect, two main approaches are used:

A) Bonded cladding (classic method)

Suitable slabs: 1 cm thickness in sizes 30×60 cm, 60×60 cm, and 60×120 cm.

When it is chosen: interior projects (bathrooms, kitchens, feature walls), fencing, house plinths, columns, and lower façade zones (up to 2–3 meters).

Why it is preferred: 1 cm thickness is optimal for vertical installation—light enough not to overload the structure, yet retaining the strength of sintered stone. It is more economical and provides a monolithic look without visible fixings.

How it is executed: double buttering with a notched trowel (adhesive applied to both wall and slab back) using high-quality flexible adhesive (class C2TES1 or S2). For heights above 2 meters, additional mechanical securing is mandatory for safety.

B) Ventilated façade (professional system)

For this method, we offer flexibility in sizes, with a recommended thickness of 2 cm.

When it is chosen: full building façades, tall structures, and projects aiming for maximum energy efficiency.

Why it is preferred: the system creates an air layer between insulation and stone, enabling natural ventilation. This protects the building from moisture, condensation, and overheating in summer. 2 cm slabs offer greater impact resistance and wind-load performance at height.

Size guidance: thanks to material strength, ventilated façades allow the use of large-format slabs for a modern, monumental building appearance.

Comparison: How to choose the right wall installation?

Method #7: Custom fabrications and finishing details

Sintered stone allows the production of specialized elements that protect structures and create a monolithic, premium finish.

Most commonly used custom elements we can produce:

Steps and vertical risers

Stairs are the most heavily loaded part of an exterior area, requiring the highest material quality.

Practical benefit: anti-slip surface (R11) ensures safety in rain and snow.

Edge options:

• Rounded front edge: safest option, protects against chipping from impacts.

• 45-degree miter (gerung): two slabs bonded at an angle to create the look of a thick solid step (e.g., 4–6 cm), producing a modern, stable appearance.

Installation tip: the riser should tuck slightly under the tread to provide toe clearance when climbing.

Pool coping

Coping is the “face” of the pool and must be technically flawless.

Practical benefit: specially processed edges help prevent injuries when entering and exiting the pool.

Edge option: a fully rounded edge (double rounding) is most suitable, allowing smooth water runoff and comfort when sitting on the pool edge.

Drainage grates made from frost-resistant porcelain tiles

Why choose them: the grate is made from the same material as the paving, making it almost invisible and aesthetically consistent.

Practical note: openings are cut precisely with waterjet/CNC, ensuring strength under foot traffic.

Caps (copings) for terraces, fences, and walls

Their main function is to direct water away from façades or fences.

Key detail – drip groove (drip edge): a small channel cut underneath along the entire length. It interrupts rainwater flow so it doesn’t run down the plaster, preventing stains and mold.

Size guidance: we recommend the cap overhangs the wall edge by at least 2–3 cm for effective drip performance.

Plinths (baseboards)

A plinth is the finishing touch that connects floor to wall.

Where and why: installed at the base of façades and walls; protects walls from splashes during cleaning and from mechanical impacts (e.g., lawn mowers).

Finish: the top edge is typically chamfered for easy cleaning and a refined look.

L-shaped finishing profiles

Elements bonded at a 90-degree angle.

Application: ideal for finishing terrace, balcony, or roof-garden edges.

Why: they conceal the visible thickness and adhesive layer, giving a clean professional border finish.

Benefits of Raimar custom fabrications:

• Color match: all elements come from the same batch as your paving.

• Longevity: unlike low-quality profiles, sintered stone doesn’t age, fade, or deform.

• Safety: every edge is machine-finished to be smooth and safe to the touch.

Practical guide for selection and application

Who are the customers for frost-resistant porcelain tiles?

Sintered stone is the right choice for property owners, architects, and investors seeking a balance between design and functionality for yards, terraces, façades, bathrooms, and public spaces.

How to choose the right thickness?

Anti-slip surface

• R10: for indoor and outdoor areas with pedestrian traffic.

• R11: for zones with increased slipping and freezing risk.

Sintered stone is one of the most reliable solutions today. If you have questions or a specific project, our team is available to help you save time and costs.

Showroom in Sofia: visit to see real samples and receive technical consultation.
Production and logistics base in Kresna: direct deliveries with full quality control and reliable logistics nationwide.